How to bike Donner Memorial State Park
Yes, Donner Memorial State Park has an interesting past (most of us know the story of the Donner Party) making its mark in the big migration of settlers coming out west to build a better life, their oxen pulling slow-moving covered wagons on the California Trail. Today, Donner Memorial State Park honors that legacy in conjunction with the California State Parks system, inviting visitors to come explore the miles of hiking/biking trails, camp, fish, visit the Pioneer Monument, and learn about how the park came to be.
One way to experience some of the best features of the park is to do it by mountain bike. When money and resources allow, the park will sometimes offer mountain bike tours in the summer, taking intermediate riders who have their own set of wheels through the Coldstream Canyon portion of the park on a 10-mile ride to the quarter section north line and back. Here’s how our group did it on the last guided bike tour of 2023 and how you can do it on your own if the guided tours are not available:
Meet at the Visitor Center: Armed with either your mountain bike or e-bike, water, helmet, sunscreen, and snacks, this is a good place to begin a self-guided tour. From here, bike up the main road over to China Cove.
First stop: China Cove – China Cove is about 1.2 miles away from where you began. Last fall, Donner Memorial State Park Historian Bill Bowness explained how Chinese workers came in 1863 to build the transcontinental railroad, and the spot we were standing in was their camp. We could see parts of the railroad built into the mountainside. In 1865, an avalanche demolished half of the camp. It’s important to note, though, that it was the Washoe people who first inhabited this section of the park in the warmer months. They would make windbreak shelters out of willows and grind pinion pine nuts and acorns into a paste to make pancakes.
Second stop: Coldstream Canyon – In another 1.3 miles, you may end up in Coldstream Canyon at the lower historic Emigrant Trail. From 1840-1870, the big westward migration happened where 400,000 people loaded up wagon trains and headed towards gold country in search of a better life and to escape disease (such as typhoid fever and cholera) and/or religious persecution.
Third stop: Coldstream Ponds – In another 1.6 miles, ride to Coldstream Ponds and observe the flora and fauna. Donner Lake was made from a moraine and is regarded as a terminal lake with no outlet. T his is where the glacier stopped, and erratic rocks were pushed up from the summit. Look out for the black and orange-striped fuzzy caterpillars.
Fourth stop: Railroad Scenic Viewpoint and mousehole – Ride 1.5 miles to the railroad tracks, where remnants of the original tracks still exist. Dip down over to the “mousehole,” a one-car tunnel that intersects with Cold Creek. This area holds a lot of history in conjunction with the building of the Union Pacific Railroad, which opened commerce for the entire country. Railroad managers would hold contests for the most track laid, and the “pounding of the golden spike” in 1869 commemorated the completion of the transcontinental railroad.
Fifth stop: Upper Coldstream Pond and the Emigrant Trail – Pedal 3.1 miles back to Upper Coldstream Pond, regroup, and then head back to the Visitor Center. There’s a stretch of not-quite single track but not-quite double track of rocky dirt road that was the original Emigrant Trail. T his is the path that oxen pulled wagons the size of pickup trucks on, traveling much slower than our mountain bikes. The story goes that the Stephens-Murphy-Townsend party was the first successful wagon company to cross Donner Pass on the California Trail. When they ran out of water, the pioneers fortunately met a nice Paiute man who guided them to the Truckee River.
“Trokay!” the Paiute man said to the pioneer wagon train, smiling and waving. The word in his language likely meant “All is well”, but the pioneers mistook it to be his name, Chief Truckee. Everything in the area was named in honor of him.
Back to the Visitor Center – It’s about 1 mile back to the Visitor Center from the fifth stop, the entire tour totaling about 9.7 miles on parts that are dirt and roadway with close to a 427-ft. elevation climb. Even though the elevation climb isn’t a lot, there are certainly areas where you can get your heart rate up. Consider making a full day out of it and swim in the lake, hang out on the beach, have lunch, and go paddleboarding afterward.
For more information about Donner Memorial State Park regarding fees, hours of operation, and special programs such as its 2024 paddling tours on Donner Lake, visit http://www.parks.ca.gov.
Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in the Summer 2024 edition of Tahoe Magazine.
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